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Rabbit Care Information
This is just a short intro into the responsibilities of keeping a bun. If you have any questions we are more than happy to answer them or if you would like to just know more in general please get in touch, either by email or phone 07737 218035, and we will send you out an info pack.
Environment for keeping rabbits
The animal welfare act was improved in April 2007. It is still against the law to be cruel to an animal but now you must also ensure that all the welfare needs of your animal are met. For a rabbit owner this means it is not acceptable to keep a solitary rabbit in a small hutch, without the opportunity to exercise.
Rabbits can be just as happy living indoors with you or outdoors in a spacious hutch in a sheltered part of the garden. We can offer advice about the size of hutch and run for the individual rabbits concerned but as a guide line the Animal Welfare Act says the hutch should be as big as possible and a pair of rabbits need nothing smaller than a 6ft x 2ft x 2ft hutch if living outdoors with a secure area to exercise. For the large or giant breeds play houses or sheds are often a better alternative. The indoor home needs to provide somewhere secure for the buns to retire to and be a safe environment protecting the rabbits from wiring and other potential hazards.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy another rabbits company and whilst they may enjoy human interaction we do not believe it to be a complete substitute. Where possible we try and rehome our rabbits to live with at least one other of their own kind. If you have a single bun we are happy to help with the introductions to a new partner or alternatively we rehome rabbits in already established pairs.
Diet
Rabbits in the wild will spend 80% of their time foraging for food and providing a rabbit with a bowl of mix and a carrot will not occupy them for long. Idealy a domestic rabbits diet should mimic the wild as much as possible, with plenty or hay and / or grass with smaller portions of greens and pellets. Unlimited good quality hay is the foundation of a healthy diet for a pet rabbit, it not only keeps them occupied for long periods of time, which reduces boredom and helps prevent behavioural problems, but it also keeps the teeth trim, the jaw strong and provides fibre to maintain healthy gut movement.
Rabbits love their treats but over indulgance can lead to serious problems; excess sugars and starchy treats can cause an inbalance of healthy bacteria in the gut and lead to fatal digestive problems and or obesity (see Bessie below). Healthy treats are things like small chuncks of carrot or apple, broccoli and other greens.
Pellets are recommended over a food mix, especially for rabbits feeding together as it prevents selective feeding. Rabbit mix only provides a balanced diet if the rabbit eats all of it, but some rabbits tend to pick out their favourite bits and two or more rabbits together eat different components of the mix.
Fresh water should be available to them at all times.
Never change a rabbits diet suddenly as this can trigger digestive upset, especially in babies or rabbits that are stressed,(eg from a move) which can be fatal. take at least 1-2 weeks to gradually change over and feed lots of hay.
Neutering
There are many health and behavioural reasons for neutering. Females are particularly prone to uterine cancer and spaying them protects them from this, it also prevents accidents happening and the resultant litters and it calms the hormones, they become less territorial and it also stops phantom pregnancies. Males tend to lose their aggression and their impulse to spray, destroy and dig. Neutering also allows the introduction of rabbits to each other as friends. We would not recommend introducing un-neutered rabbits as this has the potential to lead to the rabbits harming each other.
Health care
Annual or bi-annual trips to the vets are necessary not only for their vaccinations but also for regular check ups. Rabbits are prey animals so they hide pain well, if you notice subtle changes to your rabbits behaviour or diet take them to the vet straight away. Regular checks at home help you to get to know your rabbit better and can help pick up on problems much sooner. Ensure their teeth look healthy and not too long, their nails are trimmed back, that your rabbit isn't gaining or losing a significant amount of weight and it's very important that you groom long haired rabbits and check all buns bottoms regularly for signs of soiling as this can lead to flystrike.
Vaccinations
Rabbits should be vaccinated against both myxomatosis and VHD. Both conditions are usually fatal and can be avoided, and remember being indoors does not protect your rabbit against these diseases.
Myxomatosis is widespread throughout the UK. The most likely route of transmission is via biting insects which carry the virus and inject it into the skin when they bite. Direct rabbit to rabbit spread is possible via inhalation of the airborne virus. Nothing is 100% effective but the myxi vaccine is the most effective measure you can take to help prevent or limit the effects of this disease. An unvaccinated rabbit with this disease will almost certainly die.
VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease) is easily spread between rabbits and their contaminated surroundings and it is possible to carry it on human clothing or shoes for up to three months. The best way to protect your rabbit against this disease, which can kill in the space of two days, is again to get them vaccinated.
Flystrike
This is when flies lay eggs on a rabbit, the eggs then hatch into maggots which can mature very quickly and eat into the living flesh within 24hours. It is often fatal for the rabbit.
Any rabbit can be at risk from flystrike but it is especially prevelant during the summer and is more likely to affect rabbits that cannot clean themselves, suffer from "dirty bottoms" or have wounds or wet fur. It is very important to keep the rabbits living accomodation clean and dry, make sure the rabbit is eating a healthy diet, remove soiled bedding regularly, speak to your vet about "rear guarding" your rabbit and fly screens can also add additional protection.
If you find a rabbit has maggots telephone your vet immediately. Flystrike is a real emergency and treatment should not be delayed as flyblown rabbits are usually in pain and severe shock.
Bonding
Bonding bunnies can be stressful but it will usually work as long as it is done right. Some bunnies will just never get on, like people they have different personalities, but more often than not they will. We are happy to do the bonding for you but if you're planning on doing it yourself there are a two important things to take into account.
Neutral territory is a must! Even neutered rabbits have space they consider to be theirs and this shouldn't be invaded. Time - some bondings happen over night others take longer. Be prepared to be able to spend at least a weekend with the newly introduced bunnies so that when you go back to work you are happy to leave them alone.
